A Stream Runs Throught It

June 27-29, 2019

Leaving Niagara and crossing the Rainbow Bridge in Niagara, Ontario has us held up in traffic entering the United States. What a place to be held up. A one last, long lingering gaze at this mighty force of nature that is Niagara Falls.

Truth be told today and tomorrow are my "bucket list" check mark. We are headed to Watkins Glen. Once upon a time, I saw a photo of the crown jewel of the park, Rainbow Falls and I knew one day I would come to visit this gorge.

The drive this morning on Highway 14 just west of Seneca Lake is nothing short of spectacular. With Cayuga Lake east of here, it has us officially in the Finger Lakes of New York. I normally would be eager to explore vineyards. Two million years ago, glaciers clawed 11 long, deep gashes into what is now central New York. The resulting Finger Lakes are among the deepest in the United States, creating a microclimate perfect for growing cool-weather wine grapes.The region, some 250 miles northwest of New York City, is home to more than 100 wineries and has a reputation for world-class wines. But, alas, we are here to hike. The drive allows us to take in some of the region's scenery: rolling hills, farms, country roads and waterfalls.

We arrive in Watkin's Glen State Park around 1pm. It's definitely warm. And if we've learned nothing else, we will have the best time hiking before the sun gets high. So instead of hitting the trail, we pick out our campsite and put on our suits and head down to the olympic size pool. It's a bit of a hike down a steep hill and we're grateful to wile away the next few hours in cool water. Heading back to camp is straight uphill, but it is a welcomed trail in a beautiful cool forest. We have no complaints wanting to turn in early. I tell Halyn we're going to be on the trail at daybreak.

I pull out from our campsite at 5am. It is still dark. I head down the hill again to the parking lot where we can await daybreak. I have my coffee and we have some breakfast bars to get us started. Our early morning affords us being the second group of two on the trail. Those other two are out and gone before we decide which trail to take. We have the gorge to ourselves! The centerpiece of the 778-acre state park is a 400-foot-deep narrow gorge cut through rock by a stream – Glen Creek – that was left hanging when glaciers of the Ice age deepened the Seneca valley, increasing the tributary stream gradient to create rapids and waterfalls wherever there were layers of hard rock. The rocks of the area are sedimentary, They consist mostly of soft shales, with some layers of harder sandstone and limestone. The park features three trails by which one can climb or descend the gorge. The Southern Rim and Indian Trails run along the wooded rim of the gorge, while the Gorge Trail is closest to the stream and runs over, under and along the park's 19 waterfalls by way of stone bridges and more than 800 stone steps! We choose the gorge trail both directions. We can't get enough of the Tolkein-esque, mystic, hobbit land.

The movement of glaciers from the Laurentide and Wisconsin ice sheets shaped the Finger Lakes region. The lakes originated as a series of northward-flowing streams. Around two million years ago the first of many continental glaciers from this Laurentide Ice Sheet moved southward from the Hudson Bay area, initiating the Pleistocene glaciation. The steep drop of Glen Creek into Seneca Valley created a powerful torrent that eroded the underlying rock. This hike has left me feeling awe-inspired and privileged. I can't seem to choose only a few photos for this post. So here are just about all of them in this gallery:

We arrive back at the van and do a full on strawberry crepe breakfast before we take to the road. While having breakfast, we keep hearing this odd sound. It isn't making sense to me. It sounds like cars racing. You all probably know this, but I had no idea. Watkins Glen International, nicknamed "The Glen", is an automobile race track located in what seems like steps from here. It was long known around the world as the home of the Formula One United States Grand Prix, but the site has also been home to road racing of nearly every class, including the World Sportscar Championship, Trans-Am, Can-Am, Monster Energy NASCAR Cup Series, the International Motor Sports Association and the IndyCar Series.

How fortunate, starting so early. I don't think it would have been the same seeing this extraordinary beauty with the roar of engines as the soundtrack. How we experienced the gorge is forever etched into my soul.

Today, we move on into Pennsylvania via Route 14. It is a three and a half hour drive to Klingerstown, Pennsylvania. Route 14 once extended south all the way to the Maryland border, following Lycoming Creek. Native Americans used this pathway, which they called the Lagahani Trail, as part of a major transportation route between central Pennsylvania and the towns of Corning and Elmira, New York. This is one of those drives you just don't want to end.

Our destination for this day is an overnight at Begniga Creek Vineyards and Winery. It is nestled in the pristine Mahantongo Valley. Benigna’s Creek is situated at the highest point in the valley. The vineyard overlooks the quaint village of Klingerstown. On a clear day, you can see miles down the valley towards the Susquehanna River. We arrive on a clear day and are witness to a spectacular summer storm and blessed to go to bed with an Irish blessing.