Jesse James and Me
Deciding to head back to Minnesota is bittersweet. I know I am needed back there, but heading into the wild west whet my appetite for western exploration. Wyoming is as far west as I am able to go. This is my third attempt at Utah and it is just not meant to be... maybe next year?
We left off last with me attempting to get my water pump repaired. My trip into Rapid City gives no remedy. The RV repair place can't seem to access the water pump. I pick up more gallons of water and head to my boondocking site out side of Wall, South Dakota. I will schedule a repair at Lake Regions RV in Ramsey, Minnesota. They are a Roadtrek dealer and repair facility. I am sure it is the washboard roads that loosened the connections to the pump.
Figure I might as well head through the Badlands one more time before traveling East. I decide I will take take Highway 44 across the state and through the Pine Ridge Reservation.
The wind up on top of the canyon is brutal, so not much camp to set up and I want to be ready to break camp and head through the National Park when they open at 7am.
The morning brings a thick fog. So thick I have to crawl off the top ridge of the canyon! I wonder if we will see anything, I am surprised to come across long horned sheep so close I could feed them by hand. Pleased with my Pixel phone. I love what I have been able to capture with it.
Leaving the park, allows for a solitary drive across the state. I rarely pass another vehicle. Hwy 44, is a lovely drive east through verdant fields and iconic ranch lands. Limestone hills morph into bizarre shapes thanks to erosion. Horse ranches and sunflower fields break up the hours. I thought I would make it to Sioux Falls, but coming down to the expansive Missouri River, I spy a state campground on the river banks and I can't pass this site up. We settle into a perfect, peaceful afternoon. Sitka gets in some naptime under a pine and I get to kick back and read while sipping one of those cocktail coolers. The evening, however, brings wild thunderstorms and threatening tornados, but tornados miss us by miles. I love the thunder and rain in the van!
So how does Jesse James fit into all this? My purpose in heading back to Sioux Falls is to overnight in Garretson. Ben May who I met a couple of posts back told me about this sweet city park rich with wild west history. He also shared his beautiful photography and I just have to go see for myself. Garretson's claim to fame is Devil's Gulch and the time Jesse found himself there in September 1876 after his gang, including his brother Frank, tried and failed to rob a bank in Northfield, Minnesota. For the next two weeks he fled west, staying ahead of his pursuers by stealing horses. Only Devil's Gulch stood between him and freedom. As a sign at the Gulch describes it, Jesse "spun his horse and sprinted towards the chasm. With the lawmen watching with mouths agape Jesse's horse hurled itself across the 20-foot gorge." There are more holes in this story than would eventually be in Jesse James, but the folklore brings life to this sleepy town. The story continues with a cave along the Split Rock River where the brothers reportedly hid out for some time.
Sitka and I settle in at the Split Rock City park, where quartzite rock formations allow for stunning campsite views. Interesting architecture of the WPA (Works Progress Administration of the 1930’s) featuring a dam with waterfall, bathhouse, bridges and rock wall with flower garden are also part of the park. The quartzite used in the structures was hand quarried locally. Primitive camping, canoeing, fishing, hiking, picnicking are just some of the activities to be enjoyed at this park. The park includes nine tent only camping spots in the north area of the park which is a beautiful “back to nature” area. The south part of the park includes 12 electrical pads for campers, seven additional spots without electricity, and seven tent areas. There is also a pontoon ride for $7 that is rich with local lore. The river trip is navigated by the camp host, a local history teacher, who can sure spin a yarn.
So far all my mishaps along the way, have been new van shakedown issues, nothing to do with me. I have yet to cause an issue myself, until now. I decide to move sites and stay one more night. The site I am on is pretty unlevel. As I back out and turn around, the front tire is on a flat rock and spins having me slip and slide into the fire pit... deep into the fire pit...like up to my axel into the fire pit! Grateful for my Good Sam's Roadside assistance and a winch pull out. The tow truck driver even helps me put the pit back into place. I take myself over to the edge of the river to a dry site. I don't need electric for the night and it seems there is no water hookups anyway in all of South Dakota and water is what I need.
So this is it . The morning brings a 5 am pull out for a 5 hour drive to Ramsey, Minnesota and my water pump repair. From here I land at Chaz's for a long intermission on this crazy road trip.
“There was nowhere to go but everywhere, so just keep on rolling under the stars.” – Jack Kerouac